Every year, thousands of people walk along ancient routes, through fields, villages, and mountains, to reach a city in northwestern Spain: Santiago de Compostela. This is not an ordinary hike. It is a journey of history and effort. Some go for their faith. Others seek peace, a transition, or a challenge. But deep down, why take this journey? Let’s explore.
A Tomb at the End of the World
It all began in the 9th century. A hermit named Pelagius discovered, in a remote region of Galicia, a tomb attributed to the apostle James the Greater, one of Jesus’ twelve companions. Legend has it that his body was transported by boat from the Holy Land to the Spanish coast. The site was soon recognized as the shrine of Saint James, known in Spanish as Santiago. King Alfonso II visited it, and pilgrims followed. A church was built, followed by a cathedral. This isolated place became one of the great pilgrimage centers of medieval Europe, alongside Jerusalem and Rome.
Saint James. Source
The route to Compostela thus took on a religious meaning. Walking to the apostle’s tomb became an act of faith, penance, or gratitude. People went to ask for healing, fulfill a vow, or prepare for death. The walk became a path toward forgiveness, toward God, or toward oneself.
The distance varies depending on the starting point. Some set out from home, in France, Belgium, Switzerland, or even farther away. But to officially receive the Compostela, the certificate presented upon arrival, one must have walked at least 100 kilometers (or cycled 200 kilometers). This is why many people begin in Sarria, a Spanish town just above this threshold.
Many Routes, One Destination
Contrary to popular belief, there is not just one Way of Saint James, but several, and the main routes gradually converge in Spain. In France, four major historic routes cross the country: the Paris route, the Vézelay route, the Le Puy-en-Velay route, and the Arles route. These paths pass through the towns of Chartres, Tours, Limoges, Moissac, Cahors, Conques, and Rocamadour. They are known as the Jacobean routes. They are marked by bell towers, hospices, ancient bridges, and shells carved into stone.
The routes converge in the Pyrenees, at Roncesvalles or Somport, depending on the chosen itinerary. From there, walkers follow the Camino Francés, the most famous Spanish route, passing through Pamplona, Burgos, and León before reaching Santiago de Compostela. The distance varies depending on the starting point, but all paths lead to this city, where the cathedral houses the relics of Saint James.
A History of Silences and Revivals
During the 12th and 13th centuries, the routes to Compostela flourished. Churches were built, and religious orders settled there to protect pilgrims. The Codex Calixtinus, a 12th-century manuscript, already described the route, stages, dangers, and shrines. But with wars, epidemics, and religious upheavals, the pilgrimage declined. It did not disappear, but gradually faded from view.
In the 20th century, the Way returned to the footsteps of walkers. Enthusiasts, historians, and believers brought it back to life. The routes were marked, hostels reopened, and associations multiplied. UNESCO added several sections to the World Heritage List. The pilgrimage regained a place in people’s minds, even among those who do not consider themselves believers. It crosses magnificent landscapes, but above all, it crosses endurance, doubt, solitude, and encounters.
An Inner Journey as Much as an Outer One
Today, some set out with a backpack, a notebook, and a shell. Others walk without equipment or a clearly defined goal. They move forward one step at a time, pass through villages, sleep on straw mattresses, and eat by the light of a fire. Their motivations vary, but all experience a transformation. We set out with questions. We return with traces. The body grows tired, but the mind becomes clearer. The silence of walking eventually expresses what words could no longer put into words.
Upon arrival, the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela stands like a threshold. Some enter in tears, others singing, and others in silence. It does not matter. What matters is not having arrived, but having walked. The Way is still there. And as long as there are feet to follow it, it will remain alive.
Where Does the Shell Come From?
The scallop shell has become the symbol of the pilgrim. It can be found on the route markers, attached to backpacks, and carved into chapel walls. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages. Pilgrims who reached Compostela would collect one on the Galician beaches along the Atlantic coast. It served as proof of their journey.
The shell also had a practical use: it could serve as a spoon or a container for drinking from fountains or in inns. It gradually became associated with the apostle James, who was a fisherman by trade. It became the emblem of the Way, but also a means of recognition among pilgrims. Wearing the shell signals that one is walking toward a destination, and that this destination is not merely geographical.
When Should You Walk the Way of Saint James?
The Way of Saint James attracts the most walkers between May and September, with a clear peak in July and August. The reasons are simple: the weather is milder, accommodations are open, and many people take their summer holidays during this period. July is also marked by the feast of Saint James, celebrated on July 25, which draws crowds to the city. The cathedral holds solemn masses, and the giant incense burner known as the botafumeiro is swung above the worshippers in a spectacular movement.
Botafumeiro. Source
Outside this period, there is more peace and quiet. April, May, and October are popular for their tranquility. Winter is still possible, but hostels close and the cold makes walking more demanding. Everyone therefore chooses their time according to what they are seeking: shared devotion or the solitude of a slow step.
Ask for Your Pilgrim Credential!
If you would like to set out, there is no official registration, no ticket to purchase, and no formal commitment. The Way of Saint James remains open to all. You can begin anywhere, at any time. All you need to do is choose a starting point, put one foot in front of the other, and move forward. But to give this walk some structure, certain objects and customs frame the pilgrimage.
The most important is the pilgrim credential, also called the pilgrim passport. You can request one from Jacobean associations, at stage reception offices, or in certain parishes. This small booklet allows you to collect a stamp at each stage, in hostels, churches, and cafés. These stamps prove how far you have traveled and allow you, upon arrival, to receive the Compostela, the certificate issued at the cathedral.
Compostela. Source
The rest of the journey requires very little. A sturdy pair of shoes, a suitable backpack, and a little confidence. Thousands of markers line the routes, featuring a yellow shell on a blue background. You sleep in hostels or pilgrim hostels, and share a meal, a prayer, or a silence. Each day unfolds according to the rhythm of the body, the sky, and the encounters along the way.
You do not set out on the Way of Saint James as you would book an all-inclusive holiday. It is not a closed circuit. It is an open journey, in every sense of the word. It requires no authorization, only a free and willing step. And that first step is enough for the Way to begin working its magic.
